BASIC CARE SHEET
Emperor Scorpion (Pandinus imperator)
Status in the Wild: CITES II.
Emperor Scorpions also known as the Imperial Scorpion are very big, impressive scorpions from the tropical rain forest areas of West Africa. (Benin, Congo, Gabon, Ghana, Togo, Senegal.)
Emperor Scorpions are an ideal beginner scorpion, due to its general lack of aggression.
(but putting your hand in with a female that is giving birth or has Scorplings on her back would not be a good idea)
Emperor Scorpions are used a lot in the movies due to their size and colour and they can have close contact with actors.
The venom of this species is considered to be very mild. How ever they do have strong Pedipalps (pincers) that can draw blood!
The Venom/Sting of an Emperor is often claimed to be of the same intensity as that of a Honey Bee. Even though it is a mild venom, as with Bees, some people may have a hypersensitivity to their venom so anaphylactic shock could be caused.
This is also one of the only species of scorpion that is known to be handled with ease and in relative safety, but as with all scorpion
handling is not recommended.
Please bear in mind that the scorpion gains nothing positive from being handled, in fact the opposite may be the end result as you may cause your Scorpion undue stress or shock. It is also worth pointing out that dropping your Scorpion could kill it, so
if you are going to handle them keep them very close to the ground/substrate or no more than a few centimetres from a surface. We advise that you do not handle them and just observe them in their enclosures for their benefit.
The Asian Forest Scorpion (Heterometrus species) has been known to get mistaken for the Emperor Scorpion as they look very similar in coloration and shape.
The Asian Forest Scorpion is also an ideal beginner scorpion it's a little bit smaller than the Emperor Scorpion but it is a little more aggressive than an Emperor.
The requirements in captivity are the same for the Emperor Scorpion and the Asian Forest Scorpion.
The requirements in captivity are:Type:
Terrestrial, but will burrow to some extent if given the chance and the right Substrate.
Diet:
Scorplings can eat pinhead crickets or Mortally wounded/sliced up adults crickets, and other small insects once they leave their mothers back and have gone through their first Molt/Moult and have become 2nd Instar.
Adults eat crickets, Mealworms, other large insects, and an occasional pinkie mouse. We have found that our Emperors are not that keen on Mealworms though have read about many people who have success feeding them to their Emperors. Our Emperors seem to enjoy the occasional Daddy long legs as and when we can catch them and get them into the Scorpion Enclosure, the same goes for Moths too, free food is always worth trying however it is worth noting that this free food could contain harmful chemicals and other agents from the outside world, use at your own risk.
Emperors will feed as much as several times a week to going through fasting periods where they may not eat for several months. For the most though they will take a few Adult crickets a few times a week. You should be careful about over feeding them though because given the chance some may gorge themselves and become unhealthy and obese. If you notice that their Exoskeleton plates are becoming very spaced out (of course making sure it is not a gravid female) then maybe cutting back a bit on it's food could be wise. A heavily Gravid female often stops eating just before (Often a week or two) she is ready to give birth to her Scorplings.
A Scorpion that does not eat or food that is left untouched can be a sign that there is an issue with your Scorpion or it may be overly stressed or something is not right about it's enclosure/Heat/Lighting.
More Detailed Information about Feeding your Emperors.Drink:
Emperor Scorpions require a ready source of water at all times.
Try collecting rain water in tubs otherwise the same water you drink .
Scorpions lean over the bowl to drink so make sure they can get out of the bowl easily should they fall in!
They have been known to immerse themselves in water, this is quite natural, however ensure that the water source is not too deep and getting out of it is as easy as getting in it. Scorpions are known as being able to spend a lengthy period of time submerged, however drowning is a possibility if they cannot get out of the water so take care to make sure they can.
Full Grown Size:
4.5 to 8 inches in length and up to several inches wide...
Temperament:
Docile and calm. Though when stressed or provoked they can become aggressive, especially if it is a Mother with Scorplings. Scorpions have a very easy to notice "Threat Posture" when they are aggressive or are ready to become aggressive, they will raise and arch their backs and present their stinger almost making a full bow shape, they will also raise or gesture with their pincers. Some are noted as shaking violently also while in this position. If this is the case and you have a hand in their enclosure it may be time to leave them be for a while till the settle again, or give them time to retreat into one of their caves or hides so you can carry out Enclosure cleaning etc.
Speed:
Although Emperors are considered docile, when they move they can move very fast. So be aware of this when you are dealing with them and their enclosures. Do not leave their Enclosure open if they can get near the opening you could very well have an Emperor escape in the blink of an eye. Should you have an escapee, finding them will be easier if you have an Ultra Violet light source as Scorpions glow under UV/Black light.
Strength:
Emperors are well known for their physical strength, they can move things sometimes several times their own body weight. They have been known to escape by opening Enclosures themselves so if you have doors or a sliding opening be sure to make sure you have a lock and you use it!
Life span:
These scorpions can live for over 10 years if kept in optimum conditions and are well looked after.
Temperature:
75 to 82° F/24 to 28° C is what is considered an average temperature range to keep them in.
Remember these are Tropical Scorpions so a lower temperature is not recommended, however higher temperatures can be tolerated and in fact so long as it is not too hot they seem to enjoy a little warmer than the averages mentioned here. Some sources state that an occasional temperature peak to 100° F/38° C is fine, so long as the humidity is kept up to the usual required levels with the extra heat. If you are going to raise the temperature to this level we advise keeping a very close eye on the behaviour of your Scorpions to ensure they are not suffering or having any ill effects.
It is also worth noting that during night time a slightly lower temperature is beneficial as this reflects their natural cycle, so either turning off their heating to lower the temperature a few degrees at night time could be worthwhile, as always though keep and eye on your Scorpions behaviour for any signs of ill effects.
Be aware that it is in a Scorpions nature to burrow or go underground to avoid heat, this is one of the reasons many people mention that the use of heat mats below the tank is not the best way to use them, instead placing them on the side of an Enclosure is the best method. Which ever way you choose to go you are best to provide a "Heat Gradient", this entails having one area of the Enclosure that is hotter than the other, so the Scorpion can move from one to the other as it desires or requires. Heating should only be provided on a third to half of the enclosure, the other part of the Enclosure should be left to be slightly cooler.
Humidity:
75 to 80%. Daily misting will help keep the humidity level up. Humidity is vital to a Scorpions health, without it they have breathing issues so ensure you can maintain the humidity within the "safe zone". If your Enclosure is struggling to keep it's humidity it may be worth reducing it's ventilation, if your Enclosure cover has vents in it you could use shrink wrap/cling film over part of it to help reduce moisture loss and raise humidity. Scorpions only require a small amount of ventilation so more often than not 90% of your Enclosures ventilation area can be covered and the Scorpions will still get enough air flow.
Housing:
Scorplings can live in a clear plastic deli-container with air holes. Adults can live in a 5 to 20-gallon Tank/Faunarium/Terrarium/Vivarium
depending on the number of scorpions you are going to keep. Having more floor space than height is more important .
A vivarium 24x12x12in/60x30x30cm is enough to house one Emperor Scorpion. The more Scorpions you intend to keep together the larger an Enclosure you will need.
Having too large an Enclosure can be a bad thing, as this could make it more difficult for the Scorpion/s to catch their prey.
More detailed Information on setting up an Enclosure (False Bottom type)Lighting:
Lighting is not really needed as they are mainly nocturnal (Active at night). However it can help them regulate their internal clocks so they know when night time is.
They are especially sensitive to UV light, and such exposure will cause stress and ultimately death.
Substrate:
3 to 4 inches of potting soil, vermiculite, Coconut fibre, peat or a potting soil/vermiculite mix. Each owner has their own preference for Substrates but please note, Sand should not be used alone as a substrate as this is not a natural or wise choice for Emperors. Some owners mix a little sand with their main substrate choice, but over doing it may cause issues for the Scorpions.
Decor:
Rocks, logs, cork bark or broken flower pots will make good hiding places, Flat slate or rock (for mating).
If you do use large pieces of rock or slate it may be a good idea to put some supporting rock under it in case the sides fall or cave in burying or crushing your Scorpion.
You should aim to have at least 1 hide per Scorpion in your Enclosure, with maybe an extra one or two should "Turf wars" break out.
These hides provide security and comfort to your Scorpions and help to give them somewhere out of the light during daylight hours.
While you may want to decorate your Enclosure to look how you want it, be warned, your Scorpions may have their own ideas about interior decor. They are well known for moving the furniture about to suit them rather than you and are also somewhat messy, it's often best to let them get on with it.
Breeding Age:
Sexual maturity is between two and three years of age.
Sexing:
The best way to sex a Emperor Scorpion is by looking at the feathery looking pectines on the underside of your Scorpion.
The males pectines are longer and more feathery looking than the females which are shorter.
Males Emperor Scorpions are slightly smaller than females.
